My trip to North Korea's 'Benidorm' - flanked by guards and full of rules

A Personal Account

I was accompanied by two uniformed guards as I stepped off the bus and onto the cobbled streets of Pyongyang, North Korea. It was eerily quiet, and the few faces we did see slipped away quickly behind closed doors. Shop fronts were brightly painted, resembling a bustling Spanish town rather than the secretive, authoritarian state that I'd expected.

Heavy Surveillance

My guides and guards were with me every step of the way. At one point, I tried to strike up a conversation with a local shopkeeper, but my guard quickly interrupted, stating that she didn't speak English and that we should continue on our way. I saw very few foreign tourists during my time in Pyongyang, and those I did see were accompanied by their own minders. It was a far cry from the carefree days of sunbathing and cocktail-sipping that I'd anticipated.

A Strict Code of Conduct

We were accompanied by two uniformed guards during our entire stay in Pyongyang. They stood silently by our tables during meals, kept a close eye on us during excursions, and even accompanied us to the bathroom, politely but firmly refusing to let us out of their sight for even a moment. We were given a strict code of conduct, including a no photography rule, and the threat of deportation for any sign of disrespect.

An Orwellian Experience

The entire experience felt distinctly Orwellian. Everywhere we went, there were large portraits of the Kim dynasty, dilapidated buildings stood side-by-side with palatial residences, and propaganda films played on loop. While the rules and surveillance were intrusive and frustrating, it's hard not to acknowledge the fascinating and unique experience that is Pyongyang.